Abstract: Improvements to a previously published nonlinear parabolic wave model are developed and implemented. A second-order correction to a free-surface boundary condition used to develop the original model is formulated. The ...

Abstract: Time series of wave, mean current, tidal stage, and wind data collected at Perdido Key, Fla. are analyzed to assess the influence of a large, dredged, microtidal inlet with sizeable shoals on the surrounding wave conditions. ...

Abstract: A frequency domain wave transformation model is derived from a set of time-dependent extended Boussinesq equations. In contrast to an earlier study, this model is derived directly from the (η,

Abstract: In the context of actual surface wave conditions, the wave field is represented as a set of complex fluctuations that randomly change in both time and space, commonly known as “random waves.” These random waves can be ...

Abstract: Recent advances in the Boussinesq modeling of nearshore hydrodynamics offer a platform for the study of wind effects on wave transformation and breaking-generated nearshore circulation. The paper documents: (1) the new ...

Abstract: A method for expedient characterization of maximum nearshore wave heights due to hurricanes is described. This method, referred to as the wave response function (WRF) method, relates hurricane parameters to maximum wave ...