Abstract: Experiments were conducted with periodic wave groups incident on a plane beach with a slope of 1:35. The wave groups were composed of a series of cnoidal waves with varying wave heights. Emphasis was on obtaining a number ...

Abstract: An absorbing-generating boundary condition is derived for the two-dimensional-horizontal nonlinear shallow equations using the method of characteristics. It assumes local superposition of the incoming and outgoing long ...

Abstract: Shoaling and breaking of solitary waves is computed on slopes from 1:100 to 1:8 using an experimentally validated fully nonlinear wave model based on potential flow equations. Characteristics of waves are computed at and ...

Abstract: Shoaling of solitary waves on both gentle (1:35) and steeper slopes (≤1:6.50) is analyzed up to breaking using both a fully nonlinear wave model and high‐accuracy laboratory experiments. For the mildest slope, close agreement ...