Abstract: The effect of wave breaking on the wave energy spectral shape is examined. The Stokes wave-breaking criterion is first extended to random waves and a breaking wave model is established in which the elevation of breaking ...

Abstract: The probability density function and the first three statistical moments of velocity, acceleration and pressure of a gravity wave field, for points in the vicinity of still water level, are obtained taking into consideration ...

Abstract: A wave sensor, consisting of parallel, evenly spaced capacitance wires, whose output is the sum of the water surface deflections at the wires, has been built and tested in a wave tank. The probe output simulates Bragg ...

Abstract: This paper gives a general overview of two ocean wave experiments. The experimental goals of the Surface Wave Processes Program (SWAPP) and of the Surface Wave Dynamics Experiment (SWADE) are quite different but complementary. ...

Abstract: As part of the Grand Banks Experiment in May 1979, airborne laser profilometer measurements of the ocean wave field were made across a large cold-water extrusion situated over the Newfoundland Ridge. The feature is actually ...

Abstract: Altimeter data obtained from GEOS-3 during the three year period 1975?78 for a region of the western North Atlantic which includes a portion of the Gulf Stream system and part of the open ocean area of the subtropical gyre ...