Abstract: The mass transport velocity in shallow-water waves reflected at right angles from an infinite and straight coast is studied theoretically in a Lagrangian reference frame. The waves are weakly nonlinear and monochromatic, ...

Abstract: The mass transport velocity induced by long surface waves in a shallow, rotating viscous ocean is studied theoretically by using a Lagrangian description of motion. The depth is constant, and the water is homogeneous. Such ...