Abstract: urveys of the subaerial beach (e.g., landward of approximately the MSL depth contour) are widely used to evaluate temporal changes in sand levels over large alongshore reaches. Here, seasonal beach face volume changes based ...

Abstract: This is Part 1 of a study of nonlinear effects on natural wind waves. Array measurements of pressure at the sea floor and middepth, collected 30 km offshore in 13-m depth, are compared to an existing theory for weakly ...

Abstract: Analytic and numerical models for longshore currents generated by obliquely incident random waves am compared with field observations. Five days of observations were selected during which the waves were narrow banded in ...

Abstract: Wavenumber-frequency spectra of the infragravity (periods 20-200 sec) wave velocity field in the surf zone of two California beaches are estimated. Because the longshore arrays of biaxial electromagnetic current meters are ...

Abstract: Statistics of the nearshore velocity field in the wind?wave frequency band estimated from acoustic Doppler, acoustic travel time, and electromagnetic current meters are similar. Specifically, current meters deployed 25?100 ...

Abstract: A data-adaptive directional-spectrum estimator is developed for ?point? measurement systems such as the pitch and roll buoy and slope array. This estimator, unlike the much employed unimodal cosine power parameterization ...

Abstract: Inverse models are developed that use data and dynamics to estimate optimally the breaking-wave-driven setup and alongshore current, as well as the cross-shore forcing, alongshore forcing, and drag coefficient. The inverse ...

Abstract: An improved method for estimating the directional spectrum of linear surface gravity waves from in Situ observations is presented. The technique, a refinement and extension of the inverse method of Long and Hasselmann, is ...

Abstract: A limitation on the performance of complex empirical orthogonal function (CEOF) analyses in the time domain is illustrated with synthetic, noise-free, nondispersive, propagating signals. Numerical examples using a band-limited ...

Abstract: This is Part 2 of a study of nonlinear effects on natural wind-generated surface gravity waves in 13-m depth, 30 km offshore of Virginia. At the sea floor in this depth, free surface gravity waves are only weakly attenuated ...