Abstract: This study deals with the runup of solitary waves on a uniform plane beach connected to an open ocean of constant depth. The waves are nonbreaking during the runup process. A nonlinear solution to the classical shallow ...

Abstract: The runup of breaking solitary waves on a plane beach has been investigated. Experimental measurements demonstrate the effect of the impact of the jet from a plunging breaking solitary wave and the postbreaking bore formed ...

Abstract: The process of the excitation of harbors and bays by transient nonlinear long waves is investigated both theoretically and experimentally. A numerical method employing finite element techniques is used to solve the weakly ...

Abstract: The forces on a vertical wall due to the impact of a bore generated by a broken solitary wave were measured in the laboratory. The incident bores varied in height from 2.4 cm to 4.9 cm and in celerity from 75 cm/s to 126 ...

Abstract: The process of reflection, transmission, and propagation of long waves past a step and onto a horizontal shelf is examined analytically and experimentally using solitary waves. It is found that reflection can be described ...

Abstract: This study is related to the propagation of normally incident water waves past a submarine trench with a rectangular cross-section. The primary objective is to investigate the kinematics of the flow within and near the ...

Abstract: The propagation of water waves in a direction perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of a rectangular submarine trench is studied for a density‐stratified fluid in the trench. The theoretical and experimental investigation ...