Abstract: An approximate solution for the hydrodynamic force exerted on a moving rigid vertical plate in an incompressible inviscid fluid is derived when the plate is undergoing long‐period motion. The first‐order solution for the ...

Abstract: A consistent theory is presented for generating arbitrary, finite‐amplitude, long waves at any location in a two‐dimensional, constant‐depth wave tank using a vertical paddle‐type wavemaker. The theory consists of solving ...

Abstract: A numerical solution for the 2 + 1 (long-shore and onshore propagation directions and time) nonlinear shallow-water wave equations, without friction factors or artificial viscosity is presented. The models use a splitting ...

Abstract: This paper presents a study of the transformation of solitary waves on plane beaches. A series of laboratory experiments is presented to describe the amplitude evolution of long waves; these experiments suggest that at ...

Abstract: We present a variable grid finite-differences approximation of the characteristic form of the shallow-water-wave equations without artificial viscosity or friction factors to model the propagation and runup of one-dimensional ...