Abstract: The use of synoptic atlases of wave climatologies for determining shore line evolution is examined critically. It is concluded that the fineness of discretization of wave height is not too important, as long as energy is ...

Abstract: A parameterized solution to the monochromatic irrotational nonlinear wave over a horizontal bottom is developed. The solution is expressed in terms of a converging truncated Fourier series. The coefficients, wave number ...

Abstract: A numerical solution to periodic nonlinear irrotational surface gravity waves on a horizontal sea floor is developed using an iterative Boundary Integral Equation Method (BIEM). This solution technique is subsequently ...