Abstract: esults of numerical investigations, based on full dynamic equations, are presented for wave breaking in a one-dimensional environment with a wave spectrum. The breaking is defined as a process of irreversible collapse of ...

Abstract: This paper is dedicated to wave-induced turbulence unrelated to wave breaking. The existence of such turbulence has been foreshadowed in a number of experimental, theoretical, and numerical studies. The current study ...

Abstract: he arrival time of ocean swells is an important factor for offshore and coastal engineering and naval and recreational activities, which can also be used in evaluating the numerical wave model. Using the continuity and ...

Abstract: This paper considers an experimental attempt to estimate the spectral distribution of the dissipation due to breaking of dominant waves. A field wave record with an approximately 50% dominant-breaking rate was analyzed. ...

Abstract: The variability of frequency spectra of waves is considered; for example, the dependencies of integral and spectral parameters of waves on wave-development factors and the interrelationships of the parameters are examined. ...

Abstract: Wing-in ground effect (WIG) vehicles and planing hulls are exposed to unsteady, high magnitude hydrodynamic forces as their bow enters water. The resulting forces can lead to structural damage and uncomfortable riding ...

Abstract: The dissipation term is one of the three most important source functions of the radiative transfer equation employed by all spectral wave models to predict the wave spectrum. In this paper, the issue of physics of such ...

Abstract: aboratory experiments were performed to investigate the effects of a coflowing current field on the spectral shape of water waves. The results indicate that refraction is the main factor in modulating wave height and overall ...

Abstract: The breaking probability is investigated for the dominant surface waves observed in three geographically diverse natural bodies of water: Lake Washington, the Black Sea, and the Southern Ocean. The breaking probability is ...

Abstract: Mixing induced by nonbreaking surface waves was investigated in a wave tank by measuring the thermal destratification rate of the water column. One experiment without waves and four experiments with waves of amplitudes ...