Abstract: Comparison of predicted with observed attenuation of pressure fluctuations shows that wave heights can be estimated with observations from a pressure sensor that is buried a known depth in fine sand. The attenuation of ...

Abstract: Alongshore gradients in wave energy and propagation direction were observed near a pier that extends 500 m from the Duck, N.C., shoreline to about 6-m water depth. When incident waves approached the beach obliquely, wave ...