Stokes Correction for Nonlinearity of Wave Crests in Heavy Seas

Abstract

The application of Stokes fifth-order wave theory to random deep-water waves is considered in connection with nonlinearity in crest amplitudes. The theory is shown to apply, on average, to crest amplitudes and wave heights, although differences exist for individual waves as a result of variation in wave frequency. Corrections to the Rayleigh law and associated predictions of fractions of waves exceeding crest threshold levels are shown to be in close agreement with measurements for heavy seas when the significant wave height and average wave period are specified accurately.