Abstract: The influence of local wind on nearshore breaking waves was investigated in a laboratory wave‐wind flume. The breaker location, geometry, and type were found to depend strongly upon the wind direction. Onshore winds cause ...

Abstract: A very simple, conceptual explanation of the cause of down‐drift offset inlets is presented. Sheltering of a time‐varying wave climate by the inlet's ebb‐tidal shoal causes the offset. Wave sheltering is defined to include ...

Abstract: The limit of run-up on beaches has important coastal engineering and management implications. However, existing guidance on estimating run-up on sandy beaches is sparse and is based on parameters and models developed for ...

Abstract: A model for the migration of submerged mounds constructed offshore of the day-to-day surf zone but within the depths disturbed by waves during storm events is developed. The model considers net shoreward sand transport due ...

Abstract: An approach using the minimum factors of safety against local failures is presented. The state of the effective stresses in a slope is calculated by the finite element method with the Drucker‐Prager nonlinear stress‐strain ...

Abstract: Destabilization of particles during coagulation is analyzed on the basis of collisions between colloidal particles and eddies of the size of the microscales of turbulence which carry the incipiently forming positively ...

Abstract: We present threedimensional numerical simulations of hydrodynamic interaction between a red blood cell (RBC) and a platelet in a wallbounded shear flow. The dynamics and large deformation of the RBC are fully resolved in ...