Abstract: A numerical model based on the time-averaged continuity, cross-shore momentum, longshore momentum, and energy equations is developed to predict the cross-shore variations of the mean and standard deviation of the free ...

Abstract: A time-dependent model for obliquely incident shallow-water waves with small incident angles is developed to elucidate the dispersion effects due to the vertical variations of instantaneous horizontal fluid velocities on ...

Abstract: The prediction of berm and dune erosion during a storm is essential for storm damage assessment. Simple and transparent formulas for the cross-shore and longshore transport rates of suspended sediment and bed load on beaches ...

Abstract: Three irregular wave tests were conducted on a 1:16 smooth impermeable slope to investigate the detailed cross-shore variations of the probability distributions and statistics of the free surface elevations and middepth ...